![]() Then 6/7 weeks later i been out working in the bus all day. However, we changed the starter motor and removed the jump cables and the dash lights were fine and started off the key as normal. turned out to be a break in the live feed for the problem with no ignition lights. it given the dash lights again but will only start on a bump start. but then filled the tank to the brim and then not starting and no dash lights again.Ī back street mechanic tried joining up 2 jump cables together to connect to the live on the battery to the live jump point under the hood. on the 2001 transit in the UK the battery is under the drivers seat and the jump points are under the bonnet (hood) we tried frantically to get them back on again which we did briefly and managed to bump start it. Next day, i removed the good battery from the van and fitted it in the bus. turned it off and tried starting it again. i use the van to tow the bus and it started in second gear by releasing the clutch at around 10 mph. back in october it failed to start, it would crank but did not start. it is a 2001 ford transit minibus 2.4tddi with 474000 miles on the clock. my ignition barrel feels a bit sticky too. there are no lights at all on my dash when my engine is running, but when i turn my keys off and even remove them the ABS light is on faintly. You can google “automobile module repair” to find them. FYI, there are commercial places that will repair these kinds of problems too. But it’s less expensive than buying a new one. It can take several hours to do this, so the customer I expect isn’t very happy when presented w/the bill. I’ve heard mechanics say they have to pull the circuit card and resolder every single solder joint on the circuit board. The metal traces and the components soldered on the circuit board don’t expand and contract quite the same as the circuit board material does, which can stress the solder joints of crack the metal traces. The inside of a car easily goes from -20 degrees in the winter to 120 degrees in the summer. Office desktop computers don’t experience this problem much because - well how much temperature variation is there in an office? from 50 degrees to 90 degrees max? Most offices are even less than that. And Iexpect it gets worse with larger circuit boards, like are found in newer cars w/more complicated electronics. It’s a tough problem because of the temperature extremes found inside of cars. It seems car designers haven’t quite solved the thermal expansion problem for in-car circuit boards. So, all I need from you guys is a quick, specific, and cheap solution to my problem 8’).Ĭongrats on the solution di k. For what it’s worth, the battery voltage is 12.3 volts, and while running it’s a steady 14.35 volts. The car runs just fine…but…?! I had the battery tested at a Pepboys and they say it’s fine. In the beginning, this problem was easy to ignore…but now I’m extremely concerned, and I soon need to drive back out west and have no confidence in this car. This stops the beeping and flickering, cuz the lights no longer have power to them. I’m concerned about the beeping running down the battery with car off-so I pulled out fuse #36, which is for “a/c swith, instrument cluster”. Then once car is on, they go back to flickering faintly…but the loud beep goes away. When I turn the key to second position, all the lights light up full strength and solid, like they’re supposed to (for the testing phase). Most are faint, but the oil light and door ajar light seem full strength. The lights all flash and pulse individually. Also a loud beep occurs at erratic intervals. But six weeks ago, after driving from CA to WI, it went away…for a few weeks, but came back.Ī few days ago I went to my car, and it spread to include the checkfuel cap, oil, and door ajar lights. Then it spread to include the ABS light too, and eventually became permanent. ![]() This issue would last a week or so, then go away for a while…then come back. ![]() It was faint and erratically pulsing, it also did this when car was running. About 10 months ago noticed my battery light was faintly visible with car off and key out of ignition.
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